Removable Bolt Highline Anchors

Written By: Lance Piatt

Removable Anchors for Highline Rescue

Highline systems are often associated with complexity and beauty. But when lives are on the line — literally — it’s the anchor system that defines whether a highline is operational, sustainable, and safe. In this case, the challenge wasn’t just spanning a canyon. It was doing so without leaving a permanent trace, all while maintaining full load integrity for rescue operations.

This article explores how a removable bolt (RB) anchor system was used to build a complete highline, tag line, and belay system for rescue in a high-traffic climbing area — and how anchor placement, load sharing, and sag geometry worked together to create a functional and respectful solution.

Why Use Removable Bolts in Rescue Rigging?

The area in question is a popular climbing canyon — frequented by both casual climbers and technical teams. Leaving behind bolt hangers, chains, or other hardware wasn’t an option.

Considerations That Led to RB Use:

Aesthetics: Avoiding visible steel hardware in natural spaces
Security: Preventing the removal or tampering of bolt hangers
Land Use Sensitivity: Preserving the environment for both recreation and rescue
Operational Readiness: Ensuring bolt placements remain intact between missions

The team — consisting of Alpine Rescue Team, Clear Creek Fire Authority, and Clear Creek EMS — selected PMI ¾-inch Removable Bolts, rated at 310 pounds per manufacturer specs, as the foundation for all anchor points.

Drilling and Placement Best Practices

RBs require ¾-inch diameter holes, drilled approximately 1.5 to 2 inches deep. In this setup, the riggers drilled slightly deeper to account for:

Dust accumulation or poor cleaning
Potential impaction that could interfere with removal
Tighter camming action for greater holding power

Key Placement Rules Followed:

Minimum of 6 inches from rock cracks or edges
Rock tested for flakes or loose plates
Only solid granite selected for drilling
Final RBs were set flush or slightly recessed into the stone

“It took a lot of work to drill, but that just confirmed we had excellent granite. No flakes, no shift — just a solid foundation.”

Load Sharing for Safety

A critical part of using 310-pound rated anchors in a rescue context is never relying on one anchor alone.

Load Sharing Setup:

Multiple RBs used for each system (track line, tag line, belay)
Webbing or cordage used to create equalized master points
No single RB was left to carry the full system load
Systems were tensioned only after verifying equal load distribution
High-force systems like the track lines used four RBs for redundancy

This approach ensured that even if one RB failed (highly unlikely in solid granite), the system would remain intact.

Anchor Height and Highline Geometry

One unique aspect of this rig was the elevation difference between the far-side anchors and the control side. The far-side anchors were set much higher, which served multiple purposes:

Why Anchor High?

Allows for built-in sag in the track lines
Sag = force distribution and shock reduction
Reduces lateral loading on anchors
Prevents rope contact with Class IV rapids below
Keeps all rigging out of public view and away from tampering

This geometry meant that the subject spent more time descending than suspended, minimizing vertical drop and maximizing stability.

System Breakdown: Highline, Tag Line, and Belay Anchors

The team designed the anchor plan around three subsystems:

1. Track Line System

High-force system with 600-foot span
Anchored with four RBs, load shared to a master point
High anchor placement on the far side for sag and span control

2. Tag Line System

Used for lateral movement and stabilizing the litter
Anchored separately, slightly lower than the track lines
Routed through a brake rack, but adaptable to RIGs, IDs, or Prusiks

3. Belay System

Anchored with independent RBs
Positioned for easy access and operation on the control side
Load shared as well, with mirrored placements for safety

Each system was independent but coordinated. The anchors were preplanned for functionality and safety, based on multiple training operations in the same canyon.

End-of-Operation: Clean Removal

Once the evacuation training concluded, the team removed every RB from the rock face.

RB Removal Process:

Tap the spoon or cam with a screwdriver to release
Back out the RB
Fill holes with Quikrete, dirt, or stone dust
Pack and smooth to minimize visual signs

“It’s not no-trace — but it’s far better than leaving bolt hangers all over a climbing canyon.”

Final Word: Highline Anchors with Purpose

In a canyon where both rescue teams and climbers share space, anchor choice matters. The decision to use removable bolts was a balance of:

Operational safety
Environmental stewardship
Team-based preplanning
Equipment selection that respects the space

This setup not only protected the environment — it protected lives. It enabled swift, secure transport across dangerous water terrain without compromise. And when it was done, the canyon looked untouched.

About The Author:

Lance Piatt

Beginning his career in the rescue and rigging world as a “blue collar” SAR member with Deschutes and Jefferson County teams. Lance Piatt owns and operates Red Ibex Solutions, a sales and marketing wheelhouse blending rope rigging education and exquisite imagery with equipment knowledge and understanding; housing Rigging Lab Academy and Rescue Response Gear… Lance is producing high-end video education, working with several experts and instructors to produce unique series of “how to videos” and courses for rope rigging: Such as; the first ever full-length rescue training DVD, 'Tower Rescue', released in fall of 2005. As well as a series of scenario-based rescues ranging from cave rescue to cliff rescue.