Load Sharing Anchor 2 X 1 With Prusik and Butterfly
In this focused tutorial, we walk through a clean and effective anchor strategy: the Load Sharing Anchor 2 X 1 with Prusik and Butterfly. This system combines two critical knots—the alpine butterfly and a prusik hitch—to create an anchor that is both secure and field-adjustable without dismantling the rigging.
This configuration is particularly useful in rope rescue scenarios where anchor spacing is uneven or terrain requires micro-adjustments for balance. The system is designed for load sharing, not full equalization, which gives teams an efficient way to divide load between two anchor points while maintaining control and clarity.
System Components and Function
Alpine Butterfly Knot
- Tied in the main line between the two anchor legs.
- Creates a fixed, multidirectional midline loop that functions as the primary load-connection point.
- Provides a stable central point for clipping into without altering the direction or integrity of the rope.
Prusik Hitch on One Leg
- Offers sliding adjustability on one leg of the anchor.
- Allows the user to fine-tune leg length and adjust tension between the two anchors.
- Eliminates the need to untie and retie the anchor when minor corrections are needed.
Anchor Legs
- Each leg terminates at an independent anchor point using locking carabiners.
- These legs are not fully equalized dynamically, but tension can be balanced manually with the help of the prusik.
Advantages of the 2 X 1 Load Sharing Configuration
- Adjustability: With the prusik installed on one leg, rescuers can quickly rebalance tension if the terrain shifts or a load settles.
- Clarity: The alpine butterfly cleanly separates load paths and keeps the master point visually and functionally organized.
- Low Complexity: No need for pulleys or MA systems—only cordage and knots.
- No System Reset: Adjustments can be made without tearing down the rigging.
Practical Use Cases
- When setting up anchors in asymmetrical environments, such as cliff edges or urban balconies.
- In training environments where teams need to observe load-sharing dynamics.
- During back-up anchor setups where redundant yet adjustable systems are required.
Final Notes
The Load Sharing Anchor 2 X 1 With Prusik and Butterfly is a simple yet robust solution that every rope technician should have in their toolkit. It brings together stability, adjustability, and minimal gear requirements—making it ideal for both training and real-world deployment.
Whether used in remote wilderness rescue or confined industrial access, this configuration reflects the kind of intelligent rigging that prioritizes efficiency, safety, and adaptability under load.
Peace on your Days
Lance
