Load Sharing Anchor Using Alpine Butterfly and Figure Eight Knots
Overview
This hybrid Load Sharing Anchor combines two foundational knots—the Alpine Butterfly and the Figure Eight on a bight—to create a flexible, multi-point system. This configuration offers reliable load distribution and is particularly effective when working with uneven or offset anchor placements.
Rather than relying on a single technique, this hybrid build allows for multiple tie-in options, making it ideal for complex or asymmetrical terrain.
Why Use a Hybrid Anchor System?
Hybrid anchor systems come into play when:
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Anchor points are not equally spaced or aligned
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Load direction may shift during operation
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You need separate tie-ins for multiple systems (e.g., main and belay lines)
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You want more versatility at the master point without re-rigging
By combining Alpine Butterfly and Figure Eight knots, you can create multiple secure connection loops, each backed by reliable structure and separation.
System Characteristics
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Alpine Butterfly provides a mid-line directional loop
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Figure Eight on a bight delivers a strong, easily dressed end-loop
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Together, they allow redundant, independent load paths
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System can be anchored at uneven distances without stressing a single point
How to Build the System
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Start with an Appropriate Length of Rope
Use rope suitable for your anchor needs—dynamic or static depending on the load and context. -
Tie an Alpine Butterfly Knot Mid-Line
This will form your first loop. Choose the loop’s position based on anchor spacing or load offset. -
Tie a Figure Eight on a Bight at One End
This gives you a second loop, ideal for a direct anchor point or as a tie-in master point. -
Clip Each Loop to a Separate Anchor Point
Use locking carabiners or appropriate connectors. Ensure angles remain below critical force-multiplying thresholds (ideally <90° between legs). -
Load the System and Inspect
Once loaded, verify that both loops are sharing tension and that neither anchor is under excessive strain. Make sure the system remains centered and balanced.
When to Use This System
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Natural terrain with uneven or diagonal anchor positions
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Backcountry rescues where fixed hardware isn’t available
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Directional anchors that require independent movement or control
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Scenarios where tie-in flexibility is more valuable than pure equalization
Advantages
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Multiple connection options at the master point
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Improved load distribution across uneven anchors
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Redundancy built-in via independent knot structures
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Compatible with both rope and cord-based anchors
Cautions
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This system does not dynamically self-equalize. If one anchor fails, slack and shock may occur.
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Avoid wide-angle setups. Keep your vector forces controlled through proper spacing and geometry.
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Always double-check knot dressing and loop alignment before loading.
Final Thought
Combining Alpine Butterfly and Figure Eight knots into a single anchor system gives you adaptability without complexity. It’s a smart approach when anchor points aren’t perfect, but performance still matters. This rig balances flexibility, strength, and clarity—hallmarks of any professional-grade anchor.
Peace on your Days
Lance
