Transferring from an Anchor to an Anchor System
When a single anchor point isn’t strong enough to support the system, you must connect multiple anchor points. This creates an anchor system.
The system must be configured so that if one anchor fails, the entire system doesn’t collapse. This kind of redundancy is not optional. It protects the rigging team and the load. Fail-safe design is what keeps systems working under stress.
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Use multiple anchors only when no single point can support the load
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Redundancy ensures the system holds even if one point breaks
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The system must survive single-point failure without falling apart
Anchor systems should be used only when needed. They take more time to build and use more gear than a simple anchor. If one solid anchor will do, use it.
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Complex anchor systems are resource-heavy
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They require more time, gear, and decision-making
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Avoid unnecessary complexity when a simple anchor is available
If a point fails in a load-distributing system, slack enters the system. That slack must be removed before the anchor stabilizes.
In most cases, if the mainline fails, the belay line intercepts the load. It catches the weight before the slack fully escapes the system. But if the belay anchor fails while backing up a mainline failure, the outcome can be severe.
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Slack causes instability in load-distributing systems
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The belay usually catches the load when the mainline fails
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If the belay fails too, the system has no backup — and fails completely
Smaller anchor systems introduce less slack when a failure occurs. Less slack means less energy in the system and lower shock loads.
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Shorter systems = less slack
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Less slack = lower forces during failure
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Smaller, tighter builds improve safety
More Anchors and Anchor Systems
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