Load Sharing Anchor 3×1 Equalette With Clove Hitches

The Load Sharing Anchor 3×1 Equalette With Clove Hitches is a specialized anchor system used in climbing and rescue scenarios to distribute loads across multiple anchor points while maintaining adjustability and redundancy. Here’s a breakdown of its components, setup, and advantages:

Structure and Components

1. Equalette Design:

   • Constructed from a 6-meter (20-foot) cordelette tied with a double or triple fisherman’s knot to form a loop.

   • Features limiter knots (overhand knots) near the midpoint to create a self-equalizing master point and prevent catastrophic extension if one anchor fails.

   • The “3 X 1” configuration refers to three anchor arms connected to a single master point, allowing load sharing across three placements.

2. Clove Hitches:

   • Clove hitches are tied directly to each anchor point, enabling quick adjustments to equalize tension across the system.

   • This knot choice simplifies rigging and allows for dynamic adjustments as loads shift.

Setup Steps

1. Prepare the Cord:

   • Tie limiter knots near the center of the cordelette to create two smaller loops (for the master point) and two larger loops for anchor arms.

2. Attach to Anchors:

   • Use clove hitches to connect the larger loops to three anchor points (e.g., bolts, cams, or natural features).

   • Adjust the clove hitches to equalize tension between anchors.

3. Create the Master Point:

   • Clip two locking carabiners into the limiter-knot loops for redundancy, or use a single carabiner with a half twist to form a sliding-X.

Advantages

• Superior Equalization: Distributes force more evenly across anchors compared to traditional cordelette systems.

• Redundancy: Independent anchor arms ensure failure of one component doesn’t compromise the entire system.

• Adjustability: Clove hitches allow on-the-fly tension adjustments without untying knots.

• Speed: Faster to rig and break down than systems using figure-eight or overhand knots.

Comparison to Other Systems

When to Use

• Multi-pitch climbs or rescue scenarios requiring load sharing across three or more marginal anchors.

• Situations where directional pull may vary, and dynamic equalization is critical.

Safety Notes

• Ensure each anchor is independently strong enough to hold the load1.

• Regularly inspect limiter knots and clove hitches for slippage.

This system balances redundancy, adjustability, and simplicity, making it a versatile choice for technical rigging.

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