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Three-Way Loading

Written By: Lance Piatt

Three-way loading of carabiners.

This issue is often presented as black-and-white and is rarely given much consideration. Most users know that manufacturers warn against certain loadings but what does this really mean? Carabiner manufacturers show that is acceptable to clip a “basket sling” however there must be a relationship between the sling angle and the impact this has on the ultimate strength of the carabiner.
3WayPetzlAngle

Hypothesis

There is a relationship between sling angle and carabiner strength. This relationship can be measured, quantified, and translated into simple terms to allow users to de-rate carabiners accordingly.

Tests

In November 2014, 34 aluminium carabiners of differing shape were placed in varying configurations on a slow-pull hydraulic test bed and pulled to destruction. The results were recorded and supplemented with three previous straight-pull tests (zero sling angle) using the same equipment.

An improvised galvanised steel rigging plate was used to separate 10mm mallions and provide a fixed sling angle during the pull. Other options for this were considered however stretch in the sling legs would result in a change of angle with applied tension.

3WayTestJig
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About The Author

Richard Delaney

Richard Delaney

Richard Delaney has worked professionally with ropes since 1992 as a multi-pitch rock-climbing instructor, technical rescue instructor and rope access technician. Understanding and teaching the Physics of Rigging is a core passion of Richard’s, one based on his experience, and his prior professional life as a qualified engineer.
© Richard Delaney, RopeLab, 2014
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About The Author:

Lance Piatt

Lance Piatt

Beginning his career in the rescue and rigging world as a “blue collar” SAR member with Deschutes and Jefferson County teams. Lance Piatt owns and operates Red Ibex Solutions, a sales and marketing wheelhouse blending rope rigging education and exquisite imagery with equipment knowledge and understanding; housing Rigging Lab Academy and Rescue Response Gear… Lance is producing high-end video education, working with several experts and instructors to produce unique series of “how to videos” and courses for rope rigging: Such as; the first ever full-length rescue training DVD, 'Tower Rescue', released in fall of 2005. As well as a series of scenario-based rescues ranging from cave rescue to cliff rescue.

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