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Carabiners: Insights Into Choosing A Carabiner

Written By: Lance Piatt

Technical Information ©Petzl

Insights Into Carabiners

Carabiners are rated in capacity by loading along the long axis. They have little strength when side-loaded along the short axis. Some offset carabiners, such as the modified “D” carabiner, help prevent side loading. Make sure to always load a carabiner along its spine (the long axis).

Technical “use” carabiners have a minimum breaking strength with the gate close of 27kN (6,069 lbf) and General Use carabiners a gate closed major axis of 40kN (8,992 lbf).

Choice of carabiners for attaching the rope to the anchor

Key issues and risks

At the anchor, carabiners stay in place over a long period of time; monitoring them during use is difficult or irregular.

Requirements and needs differ depending on the situations, and the equipment to be connected.

During installation, there are often several items to be attached to the carabiner. The anchor is not always easily accessible; installation must sometimes be done with one hand.

                                                              The most important risks to consider

Recommendation on carabiner and accessories

Why this choice?

• The SCREW-LOCK system facilitates installation, as it can be locked just once, at the end of the operation. The entire operation can be done with one hand. With an auto-lock, the sleeve must be operated at each opening/closing of the gate and two hands are required to attach an item

• The frame shape and material (aluminum or steel) must be chosen depending on the situation (industrial, heavy systems, sport or recreation, lightweight systems…) and on the equipment to be attached (one or more ropes, pulley, PAW…)

Precautions for use

• During installation, anticipate the situational risks and evaluate the possibilities of monitoring the connectors before and during use

• Do not leave a carabiner at the anchor without the ability to monitor it, if there is any risk of movement during use, cantilever loading or rubbing

• Once the installation is complete, verify that the connectors are correctly locked and positioned before using the system

• Whenever possible, back-up the system to avoid being dependent on the strength of only one carabiner

• Warning: the SCREW-LOCK sleeve can be opened by vibrations. During installation, be sure to rotate the carabiner so that gravity and vibrations tend to “close” the sleeve rather than “open” it.

 

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Peace on your Days

Lance
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About The Author:

Lance Piatt

Lance Piatt

Beginning his career in the rescue and rigging world as a “blue collar” SAR member with Deschutes and Jefferson County teams. Lance Piatt owns and operates Red Ibex Solutions, a sales and marketing wheelhouse blending rope rigging education and exquisite imagery with equipment knowledge and understanding; housing Rigging Lab Academy and Rescue Response Gear… Lance is producing high-end video education, working with several experts and instructors to produce unique series of “how to videos” and courses for rope rigging: Such as; the first ever full-length rescue training DVD, 'Tower Rescue', released in fall of 2005. As well as a series of scenario-based rescues ranging from cave rescue to cliff rescue.

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