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What is Fall Factor?

Written By: Lance Piatt

What is Fall Factor?

 

Fall Factors are something that every rescuer and climber should understand.  Fall factor is only applicable in situation where a climber/rescuer has climbed above their last anchor point.  Understanding fall factor will help a climber/rescuer determine when and how often to place anchor points.  Because it is impossible to fall farther than twice the length of the rope the highest possible fall factor is 2 (except via ferrate).  A fall of 8 meters on 4 meters of rope (8 divided by 4) is a fall factor 2.  So is a fall of 40m on 20m of rope (40 divided by 20, fall factor 2).  It is important to remember that fall factor is not the only determinant when calculating impact force; overall length of the fall, friction from anchors, as well as the manner of belay (whether dynamic or static) also greatly affects the impact force felt by the climber.  In order to limit the impact force created is it important to place protection whenever possible and to utilize a dynamic belay.
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About The Author:

Lance Piatt

Lance Piatt

Beginning his career in the rescue and rigging world as a “blue collar” SAR member with Deschutes and Jefferson County teams. Lance Piatt owns and operates Red Ibex Solutions, a sales and marketing wheelhouse blending rope rigging education and exquisite imagery with equipment knowledge and understanding; housing Rigging Lab Academy and Rescue Response Gear… Lance is producing high-end video education, working with several experts and instructors to produce unique series of “how to videos” and courses for rope rigging: Such as; the first ever full-length rescue training DVD, 'Tower Rescue', released in fall of 2005. As well as a series of scenario-based rescues ranging from cave rescue to cliff rescue.

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