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Selecting an Anchor

Written By: Lance Piatt

Rope rescue training for veterans covers leadership, mechanical advantage, and advanced rigging skills and Hidden treasures in team leadership

Selecting an Anchor: The Foundation of Rescue Rigging

In the world of technical rescue, selecting the right anchor is a fundamental skill that can make or break an operation. Anchors form the backbone of any rope system, providing the stability needed to safely manage loads and perform rescues. While many anchors may seem adequate, their true quality is revealed only when subjected to the forces of a real rescue situation. Effective anchor selection requires judgment, experience, and adaptability, along with a keen understanding of the operation’s goals and constraints.

Key Considerations for Anchor Selection

Anchor selection depends on several critical factors that influence both the safety and efficiency of the rescue. Three primary elements to assess are location, strength, and time.

  1. Location: Where the anchor is positioned directly affects the direction of forces and the path of the load. Anchors set back from the edge provide more workspace for rigging but may require directionals to align the system with the fall line.
  2. Strength: The anchor must withstand all anticipated loads, including potential peak forces during dynamic events. Ensuring the anchor remains within agreed safety factors is non-negotiable.
  3. Time: In emergencies, time is often limited. Experienced rescuers may need to balance expedience with reliability, relying on insight and practice to make swift decisions.

Types of Anchors and Their Applications

Not all anchors are created equal, and each type serves distinct purposes. Understanding their characteristics helps rescuers choose the most suitable option for the situation.

Working Line Anchors

Designed to provide ample workspace, these anchors are typically set back from the edge and aligned with the fall line. They are flexible and can accommodate additional directionals when needed.

Belay Anchors

Positioned closer to the edge, belay anchors ensure alignment with the fall line for smooth belay operations. Their placement enhances efficiency in lowering and raising systems.

Bombproof Anchors

These are the gold standard of anchor systems, designed to withstand extreme forces without failure. Whether structural or natural, bombproof anchors do not require backups due to their inherent reliability.

Questionable Anchors

When bombproof anchors are unavailable, questionable anchors can be used with an independent backup point to ensure redundancy. These anchors are strong enough to sustain vectored loads but are not as robust as bombproof systems.

Marginal Anchors

Marginal anchors lack the strength to support loads independently but can be combined with other anchor points to create a cohesive, load-sharing system.

The Importance of Focal Points

The anchor’s focal point acts as the central hub where all forces converge. Proper placement of the focal point enhances the efficiency of the system and minimizes hazards. Key considerations include:

  • Situating focal points far enough from the edge to provide workspace for haul systems.
  • Using pre-tensioned back-ties or front-ties to prevent anchor extension in load-sharing systems.
  • Raising the focal point to improve edge management, particularly when using litters or negotiating uneven terrain.

Strategic placement of focal points during the initial size-up of a rescue incident prevents unnecessary de-rigging and ensures smoother operations.

Additional Anchor Setup Tips

To ensure the safety and integrity of the system, rescuers must account for the following:

  • Protect the system: Pad anchor points to prevent sharp edges from damaging ropes and evaluate anchor integrity before use.
  • Account for directionals: Use artificial high directionals or natural features to optimize rope angles and efficiency.
  • Avoid over-reliance: Seek system-wide redundancy by incorporating multiple anchor points to reduce the risk of failure.
  • Plan for hazards: Avoid anchor points exposed to hazardous materials or high temperatures.

What directionals are available if needed?

  • A directional may be needed for the use of specific anchor points.

  • Is an artificial high directional needed at the edge?

  • Rig the focal point high to take advantage of any natural high directional (e.g., stair-stepped edge) and allow for more efficient edge management with a litter.

Strategic Anchor Placement for Rescue Success

Effective anchor selection and placement are not just technical skills—they are critical components of safe and successful rescue operations. By understanding the nuances of anchor types, focal point positioning, and additional setup considerations, rescuers can ensure their systems are stable, reliable, and efficient.

Rescue teams that master these principles can approach even the most complex scenarios with confidence, knowing their anchor systems are designed to support and protect lives.

For more insights into anchor building techniques, explore Rigging Lab Academy’s anchor training courses. Learn more about anchor types and their applications to master the art of rigging with confidence.

Peace on your Days,
Lance
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About The Author:

Picture of Lance Piatt

Lance Piatt

Beginning his career in the rescue and rigging world as a “blue collar” SAR member with Deschutes and Jefferson County teams. Lance Piatt owns and operates Red Ibex Solutions, a sales and marketing wheelhouse blending rope rigging education and exquisite imagery with equipment knowledge and understanding; housing Rigging Lab Academy and Rescue Response Gear… Lance is producing high-end video education, working with several experts and instructors to produce unique series of “how to videos” and courses for rope rigging: Such as; the first ever full-length rescue training DVD, 'Tower Rescue', released in fall of 2005. As well as a series of scenario-based rescues ranging from cave rescue to cliff rescue.

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